A travel blog about Dan and Rachel Goddard. two 31 year old RVers. *Photographs are available for sale. Please contact us via our email link for pricing and information. **If this is your first time here, it may be helpful to read the February 2004 archives for background.

Monday, December 13, 2004

Rellenos y Bicicletas




With the prank wars over, Dan Meredith and I settled into a more civilized lifestyle. We surfed a bunch and enjoyed all that this charming town has to offer.




It has been a real treat for Dan and I to get to eat out a bunch. Our favorite lunch spot is the Torta Stand where for about $5 we can get two giant sandwiches, and two smoothies. Dinner we can choose from the Carne Factory, a roadside taco stand, where dinner for 3 runs $8, a family style Mexican restaurant on the Plaza, dinner for 3 $6.50 or an array of fish taco joints.


The pan lady who brings fesh baked goddies to the Park every morning.


The Torta Stand Owner.

But our favorite place is Estella and Lorenzo’s, which is just up from the campground. Estella makes the BEST chili relleno I have ever had, and I fancy myself a bit of a connoisseur. We went there for dinner Wednesday night, the rellenos lived up tot heir reputation and we lingered long enough to pay our respects to the chef. While there we learned that Lorenzo is a biker. In fact he is the local bicycle repair man, and he is the coach for the local mountain biking team. His son Adrian is the Infantile Champion of Mexico. The Infantile category goes up to 15 years old, Adrian is 14 but this year he was bumped up to the Junior level.

We love mountain biking and asked if we could join them on a ride. Better yet they offer tours complete with front suspension bikes and any needed accessories. Cost of the trip, a donation to the bike team. We set up a date for the next morning, just a 1-2 hour tour.


Adrian with his trophies.

We met them at 8am. Adrian led us over the roads and passes between Sayulita and Punta de Mita which is 7 miles away along the connecting road. Lorenzo held up the rear with me, all the time giving me some sorely needed pointers which I am eternally grateful for. We wound up and down along the beaches then through the jungle, past mango plantations and farms. We rode past a rattle snake and even stopped for a coke in a small village along our route. Our one hour trip stretched into four and we rode somewhere between 15 and 20 miles. Lorenzo and Adrian both speak English very well and were amazingly tolerant of our broken Spanish. The ride and spending the day with them, was maybe my favorite thing we have done this entire trip.


Our group stopping for a Mexican Coke.


Me bringing up the rear.

Afterwards we made our donation in money and whatever cycling gear we could round up. Dan even sacrificed his favorite cycling shorts for the cause, essentially anything we figured we could replace we left for them.

The next day we ventured up to Chacala, another surf spot. This was our first official surfing skunk. From all accounts Chacala can be a heavenly place with a long safe left break. We hired a water taxi to take us out to the break, but the swell was all wrong and the waves were breaking only about 50’ off of the sea urchin covered rocks. Because we are all in our 30’s now we were wise enough to realize that losing $20 for a water taxi to nowhere, is far superior to being dropped off for three hours at a very scary break with no shoreline easily accessible. We tucked tail and returned to the truck. From there we drove back down to Burrows a much friendlier break for the likes of us.

Meredith left yesterday, but don’t you fear she will be reprising her role at New Years when we visit her again. Dan and I went to the big PV grocery store to stock up on some of the foods we love down here.

Once we returned to Sayulita it was time for my relleno lesson. Estella welcomed me into her home while she was preparing the food for the restaurant. She showed me how she makes the rellenos from start to finish. She would accept no help from me; I couldn’t even do the dishes. I stayed for 3 hours. I was fed cookies and a traditional rice drink. We talked about her kids, about how much she loves cooking and how well she and Lorenzo work together.

Lorenzo told me that he realizes Estella is the chef, she is a fantastic cook. He is there to help her, so he chops vegetables and helps clean up. They run an amazingly clean and conscientious kitchen. Because they are cyclists they are very health conscious, they cut out fats and use only fresh products. I was truly touched by their generosity and their willingness to not only tell me how to make this, but their insistence on showing me how.

Lorenzo said his role is to be social, greeting the patrons in the restaurant and making contacts to advance the bike team. People have donated everything from cycling socks to the full suspension, disc brake, Santa Cruz bike that Adrian races on. Lorenzo estimates that it costs 1500 pesos (about $150) per kid to go to the races, the costs are in entry fees, lodging, meals etc. Often they cannot take all of the kids who want to race because there is not enough money.

Recently they were invited to compete in a 12-hour race, but they can’t afford headlamps for the riders to wear during the dark times of the race, so they could not participate. From what we have seen the kids love Lorenzo and he is a fantastic coach. His team has lots of talent, but lacks funding. I wish I had more to give, but alas all I can do is tell you about it and hope that something more may come of that. You can learn more about them at :http://www.sayulitalife.com/sayulitabiking.htm




The past 12 days have been the Virgin de Guadalupe Festival. A fascinating festival that last 12 nights. We were fortunate enough to get to attend evening mass, where I was overwhelmed by the number of familiar faces I saw. You really can get to know an entire community in six weeks. We saw the parades and enjoyed nightly fireworks displays.


We have only a few days left here and I am desperately trying to soak it all in before we go. On that note I will pull my nose out of the notebook and enjoy the town.







I'll Get You My Pretty!


December 13, 2004

In the last week we have been really busy. Brother Pat kept us entertained for five days, friends Ryan and Jonika made a guest appearance, Meredith moved in with us and The Locals waged a war that severely disrupted my sleeping patterns.

During Brother Pat’s visit we surfed and surfed and surfed. At night we ate and ate and ate and then drank a little too. One night early on in Pat’s visit he and our friend Bob, one of The Locals, went out on the town. Late that night they had a moment of what I refer to as “Pacifico logic”. This allowed them to think that if they came into the trailer park at midnight yelling Dan’s name, he would hop right up and join in their debauchery. Dan did not leave the safety of our bed, he’s a good boy, but Bob had unknowingly kicked of the, “Who can wake whom up more often” pranks of the following week.

The very next night, Pat, Meredith Dan and I decided it would be a good idea for us to take a dip in Jamie and Rose Marie’s pool late at night, again “Pacifico logic” at work. We were busted about five minutes in. Jamie and Rose Marie were both principals and we had just been caught by them. We fully expected a swatting or detention, but instead we were punished with tequila shots and good conversation. Bob was at home recovering from the previous night’s events, so of course we had to call him repeatedly to wake him up, tit for tat if you will. He remained strong and never answered the phone, but we had defiantly sent a message.


Meredith’s birthday was the next night, we threw her a dinner party up at Bob’s house, since we were all there, no pranking was done on this evening and once we went our separate ways we all slept soundly.

We said goodbye, yet again, to Brother Pat. Don’t worry he will continue his reoccurring role in a post a few weeks from now when we meet up for Christmas. Since we were already in Puerto Vallarta we decided to spend a day at our friend’s Ryan and Jonika’s hotel there. Jonika won a trip to P.V. as a work incentive and they did it up in high style. They stayed at the Westin and Nikki Beach resort. Dan, Meredith and I had a hard time adjusting to how the other half live, but we did our best. The beach bed’s and cabana boys helped to ease the transition.


The cabanas at Nikki Beach.


Our motley crew.


The aftermath.

The next day we were in desperate need of a good night’s rest and a day of detox. Meredith had moved from her fancy digs at the surf camp, to the plot of grass in front of our camper and her tent. We were all asleep by 7:30. Around 11:30 I thought I heard carolers, really bad carolers. In fact what I was hearing was The Locals driving through the park screaming Jingle Bells and laughing hysterically. Then I heard Bob say “I know we’ll bright them”, this was followed by their truck doing a donut in the parking area so they could point their headlights directly into Meredith’s tent. Mer got up and addressed the drunkards, from there on all I heard was laughter. By some miracle we were not voted out of the RV park the next morning. Seems our neighbors have really good senses of humor and the sight of four people, with a median age of 60,heckling the youngin’s was appreciated by all.

In the morning we decided against retaliation, why not let the old folks enjoy their victory. Besides Jamie and Rose Marie were leaving for Arizona and we can’t afford the long distance charges involved with any future pranks. Thus ended the “Who can wake whom up more often” pranks of the winter of 2004.

Footnote: The surf camp Mer went to is pretty schwanky. Many of the women who attended it were a bit more high society then the likes of us. Case in point: One of the women, we’ll call her Texas, joined us for dinner one night. She asked about our travels and we told stories for as long as our companions seemed interested. The whole time though we were aware that Texas was watching us like you watch a car wreck. Morbidly curios I suppose.
The next day she was chatting with Meredith and she said the following, (it helps if you read this in a thick Texas accent) “I enjoyed meeting your friends last night, but I must tell you, I…I would never know people like that. I guess maybe I am just to0 civilized.”
We love this quote!