The Grand Cayon 2004

For this 21-day tour we have amassed a team of seasoned professionals.

Here's the team: (as you read this to yourself it helps use your own personal boxing ring announcer voice...)


Our fearless tripping leader, and dutch oven master. Bjorn "D-John" Sutton


The beautiful and talented co-tripping leader, and owner of two boats, Mrs. Brook "Floozie/ Flippy" Sutton.


The court jester and beholder of frightening amounts of trivial knowledge, Sarah "Swiller" Henrikson.


Ever even keeled, (with the possible exception of tequila night) Colin "Sutt" Sutton.


The Dapper Don of our crew, Ryan "Dodger" Dodge, a.k.a. Mr. P.


The only woman tough enough to tame the Dapper Don, Jonika "Nadja" Horton.


The anti- tripping leader, class clown and man my husband is no longer allowed to call his friend, Eric "Weinklos" Weink.


The second best kayaker on the trip, the ever tolerant and lovely Mrs. Jamie "Hymee" Weink.



Safety boater extraordinaire and nine-time canyon runner, Mike "Skumby" Werner



The only woman crazy enough to put up with Mike, the not-so-into-spicy, Carol Viau.


Perhaps the only person who is really qualified for this trip, the ruggedly handsome and boatedly endowed, Kipp Ertl


In this corner, the ginger-haired waif from southeast London, John "Blades" Williamson, a.k.a. The Ferrel Cat Slayer.


Bestower of all things NRS and stasher of copious amounts of Coors Light, Juan "Cheezemo" Cullum.



The only person who really ever knew where in the heck we were... and the only person whose last name I do not know.... Val.


Guardian of the groover, beholder of germs galore, the toilet ticket from Page Arizona, Crapper Crab.

And finally the home team...


The love of my life, guide of all guides, weighing in at 31 going on 71, Daniel "Dang/ Bunny" Goddard.


And yours truly. Barer of few clothes, consumer of too much vodka and co-flipper extraordinaire, Rachel "Ratchet/ Honey Bunny" Goddard.

Now that we've met the team let's get on with the show.

(In an attempt to make this as easy on you, the reader/ viewer, I am going to upload segments masked as different dates, so that there are never too many pictures to upload at once. Hope this helps. )

Note: Alright I have now dedicated many hours to this series of postings. I am no longer able to proof read my own typing so I am certain this is riddled with errors, I trust you will all overlook these. Anyone want to offer to correct all of my posts for me?? It is my hope that any errors will not detract too much from the general content.

Next

The Big Ditch Part One

Ditch Journal.



Day One En Route: We awoke at 5:45 and loaded into our fully laden vehicles for the five hour drive. We made a pit stop in Page, AZ for last minute provisions including river costumes. Once in Lee’s Ferry we met our ranger, Ray, and began the seven-hour task of prepping and rigging our boats. About two-hours in we were treated to a torrential rain storm. We all mobilized to cover the beer with tarps, so as to save the cardboard boxes, before we sought shelter. Ranger Ray would site this event the next day in our official ranger meeting.

Additionally Ranger Ray informed us that we could expect flows of 16,000-18,000 through the end of August, then the flows will drop to 6,000- 8,000.

That evening we enjoyed a “last supper” of sorts at the Marble Canyon Lodge. I opted for chicken fried steak smothered in green chili and my last ice-cold bottled beer for 21 days. We spent the night in the rafter’s campground along side the river and were serenaded by the hundreds of frogs there.


Entrance Bouy.

Day One River: Up early. It’s launch day. Our meeting with Ranger Ray was scheduled for 9am, but he showed up early and sat in on our group meeting. After our meeting was over the love fest began. Ray LOVED us! He waved us through, sighting the previous day’s comradery and attention to detail when we sacrificed ourselves for the beer cases. This was particularly cool because there are hundreds of ranger check-out horror stories out there. Groups forced to drive back to Page to buy new life jackets because theirs are slightly faded for example. But not us, we got the green light and hit the rio at noon.


The entire group at the put-in.

We floated a mellow 11 miles, the first 100’ were the most pristine green waters ever but then Pariah Creek came in and muddied the river to the color and consistency of a latte. The river would remain this way until we hit the lake 293 miles downstream. We floated under the Navajo Bridge the only automobile bridge we would pass. Now 1600’ deep the canyon walls rose above and I realized, wow…after all of the years of waiting and anticipating I am in the Grand Canyon!!!

Mile 7.4 marked our first Grand Canyon rapid. Generally accepted river ratings are I-VI. Class I being lake water and VI considered unrunnable in a raft. The Grand has so many rapids and they are so big that they use a 1-10 scale. Our first rapid was Badger a 4-6, a big wave train, it was a blast. Our first night’s camp was above Soap Creek Rapid.

Day Two: Our plan is to have early mornings and get on the water before afternoon showers and winds kick in. We woke up per the plan and hit the river. Dan and I were alone on our raft today which was nice since we are a bit shell shocked being around people again. Our social skills leave a bit to be desired after two months mostly alone.

This was an amazing day, filled with rollercoaster waves and ever deepening canyon walls. We are six layers deep in rock now and I am not convinced that we are seeing the top of the canyon from down here.

Two big rapids today. House Rock and mile 24.5 both have huge waves and the Prince William, our only bucket (non self-bailing) boat got swamped, the bilge pump got a heck of a workout. The rapids seem tame compared to the eddy lines down here. Each eddy has the power to suck us in and stops us in our tracks. Top Gun quotes started flowing right about here. A boat sucked into an eddy while another passes by in the current solicits a “we’ll hit the breaks and they’ll fly right on by”. A boat getting spun in an eddy line gets a “ Maverick, we’re entering a flat spin”. And if all the boats pass a boat stuck in an eddy cries of “never leave your wingman” can be heard.

Day Three: Eric’s 30th Birthday.
We hit the water early and made good miles to Nankoweap., mile 52. Only one rapid along the way, President Harding is essentially just one big rock in the river which you skirt on the left.


Our Nankoweap camp.

In camp we lounged in the river until it was cool enough to hike up to the graineries and the most famous (if you rate fame by number of postcards with the same picture on them) grand canyon view. The view is all it cracked up to be.



The view.


Nankoweep Graineries.

We returned to fully decorated camp and the birthday party began. Everyone put on their birthday party costumes and traded in their beer cans for margarita glasses.

A very fine day indeed.


Kip's raft early on.

Day Four:
A shorter river day today. Half of the group got dropped off to hike the Carbon Creek trail. The remaining folks rowed the boats down to camp where the hikers would be meeting us later. Among those of us in camp early was Blades. Blades lives in Aspen and I had never met him before. He kept us entertained with stories from his rugby days in England and we became fast friends. Dan and I served Groover Gin and Tonics. A groover is a portable crapper. Originally they were simply ammo cans which left grooves on you butt cheeks. The new generation groover is essentially a giant plastic water bottle. So before it has EVER been used for its intended purpose it makes for a nice cocktail tub. We have six groovers for this trip and we will fill them all.


Vasey's Paradise.


Catadyn Filter, our water source. We collect clear water where we can and filter it for drinking.


Next

The Big Ditch Part Two

Day Six:
This was a big day. A really BIG day! We ran Unkar and hiked through the archeological site there. We scouted Hanse rapid and I wanted my mommy! We picked our line and learned that the river picks your line down here, not you. Afterwards we ran Sockdolager and Grapevine Rapids which are my favorite rapids, super fun and big wave trains.


Pottery Shards at Unkar.

The canyon changed today from Red and tan sandstone to medieval looking granite. Powell’s expedition noted how this did not bode well for them because the harder the rocks they found, the harder the rapids. Tomorrow Jonika leaves us so tonight we celebrate her and enjoy our remaining time together.

Day Seven:
We bid adieu to our beloved Jonika and were so sad to see her go and to see Dodger so sullen at her departure. A few of us hiked up to Phantom Ranch and were rewarded with packages from family and friends. Our booty included homemade cookies, which remarkably survived the ten-mile mule ride, snacks and money which was converted into iced lemonade for all. Special thanks to my folks, Kim and Mike, Dave and Sue and cousin Heather.


Mule train at Phantom Ranch.

Back on the river for another big day. Right away we hit Horn Creek, you enter the rapid through two rocks or horns and run her down the gut. Then came granite and again my mommy was no where to be found. Hermit was super fun, with the biggest waves I had ever seen. All runs were clean and I was just starting to feel really good about our chances. Then came Crystal, the ugliest meanest looking rapid I have ever seen. From the scout you cannot see the sneak run so it is truly mortifying. We watched two J-Rigs come through, these boats are about 40’ long, this should give you an idea of how big these rapids are.


Dodger and Sutt in Hermit.


Juan in Hermit.

Day Eight:
Since our camp was occupied we had a slightly modified layover day. Traditionally a layover day is a respite from the day to day tasks of load the boats, unload the boats. We only had to float 100’ to Bass Camp so we Beverly Hillbillied down the river.

Once in camp we realized the short comings of this layover spot. #1- no shade! #2 a nasty eddy in front of the camp, so no easy access to swimming waters in which to cool ourselves. Well we aren’t whiners, we’ll just drink the heat away. In the afternoon we hiked to Shinumo Creek and cooled off in the clear water.

Day Nine:
A fun day of Class 5 rapids. We did a group hike up to Elves Chasm and all jumped off the waterfall. Elves is yet another oasis in the desert.


Elves Chasm.

Day Ten:
Big fun Rapids today. Specter Rapid was especially of note. Bedrock was a technical and potentially nasty rapid. Prince William spent some extra time in the eddy here. Dubendorf caused Dan to call out his first “Oh Shit!” command, as we hit the two biggest holes in the rapid. Somewhere in here Dan managed to throw out his back which lead to him not rowing much in the following days. We all did a huge hike up Tapeat’s Creek to thunder River. This was a fun hike for Dan who did it ten years ago. At Thunder River you can climb into the rock wall where the water comes flying out of the cliff. Inside is a labyrinth of caves with waist deep pools of freezing water.

Next

The Big Ditch Part Three

Days Eleven and Twelve:
We hiked Deer Creek today. I had been looking forward to this hike most of all. The creek runs through carved red sandstone winding along to a 100’+ waterfall. Blades took a rock to the head on the hike and was pleasantly ga-ga for about an hour.


Dan's feet over Deer Creek.


Jamie and me at Deer Creek.


Deer Creek Caverns.

Just downstream from Deer Creek we lucked into the greatest layover camp ever. Poncho’s Kitchen is blessed with a huge overhang and day-long shade. The beach here was perfect for horse shoes and volleyball, we all spent a fabulous day recreating. Two of our crew brought black lights along to hunt for scorpions with. Incase you have not enjoyed this particular activity I’ll explain. Scorpions glow under black lights. They are really easy to spot and pretty cool to see. After our hunting trip my knee managed to find the only rock on the beach, injury number three.


Morning Yoga class.

Day Thirteen:
Dan’s back was still really hurting him so he took a ride on Prince William. Brook and I took my boat for the day. Around noon we all hiked up Matkatanuba Canyon, a sandstone slot canyon. Also a very cool hike I would love to be able to do again.


Olo Canyon above Matkatanuba.


Matkatanuba Canyon.

Brook and I loaded back into the raft, we were just a few miles above our camp and there was just one rapid in between. Our guide books had been really helpful and very accurate up until now. I checked the map and Brook and I had a chuckle over the description of upset rapid a class 3-8. This is a mighty big spread. Up until now we had been scouting everything over a class 7. The water had dropped down considerably in the last few days and we all assumed the rapid would more along the class 3 lines. We were wrong.

Brook lined up our raft perfectly, we tried to skirt the big holes by running right but the river took us and there was nothing we could do. The first hole slowed us to a crawl and delivered us into the belly of the beast, or the second hole, which delivered the knockout punch. The flip happened in slow motion for me I was acutely aware of everything that was happening. Brook and I both ended up under the boat and had to feel our way out. We came up on the same side of the raft and shared a big grin before trying to rectify our situation. It was the first flip for both of us, we were both fine and it couldn’t have happened in a better place. We re-flipped the boat and had pulled to shore for a complete inventory within ten minutes. Total cost of the flip: one sarong, one beer can and one visor. This was a very successful flip. Dan’s chest swelled at the fabulous rigging job he had done.

In camp Brook and I got the royal treatment and we recounted our tale to anyone who’d listen.

Day Fourteen.
Today was a mellower river day. We spent three hours hiking up Havasu Creek. What a phenomenal place. The hike is long and difficult now, due to a flash flood a few years back. The rewards are pool after pool of cascading clear turquoise pools and falls.


Havasu Creek.


Rattler along side Havasu.


Goat at Havasu.

We got to camp pretty late, ate and all went to bed early. Lava’s coming up tomorrow.

Next

The Big Ditch Part Four

Day Fifteen:
The build up to Lava was maddening. Ten miles of flat water and the entire time you know the biggest baddest rapid is coming up. Lava is legendary, every river runner knows about this rapid. Lava rapid is the fastest moving navigable water in the western hemisphere. One mile above we all pulled over and kissed the Vulcan’s Anvil, a huge lava rock in the river, a kiss for good luck.


Scouting Lava.

Well kissing the rock seemed to work, all six boats made it through right-side-up, although some more cleanly than others. Due to the low water level all boats had to run the right line, there was no left sneak route.


Prince William running Lava.


Juan and Val in Lava.


Kip and Blades in Lava.


Brook and Bjorn's Lava Run.


Lunch afterwards was an immediate drunk fest. What a weight off of all of our shoulders. There are still rapids below Lava, and they can flip boats, but this is the big bully of the Colorado and to have him behind you is a relief.


Motor Rig hauling our drunks to shore after Lava.

In camp Werner introduced to the Lava Follies. He began the show with his rendition of Hatchmo the desert elephant. He and Dan were transformed into Hatchmo with the aid of a tarp, a lifejacket, and a fun noodle. Eric Weink and I performed our river couples skit and no one was spared from our aping them. Werner and Dodger took us on a magic bus ride which was all just an excuse to throw buckets of water on the unsuspecting participants. The night was a blast.

Day Sixteen:I rowed all day today, up till now I had only rowed for a few miles each day. This day felt like a layover day on the boats. With Lava behind us everyone mellowed out. We blared our stereos and enjoyed a wonderful float. We had game night in camp, chess, backgammon and hearts.

Day Seventeen:
We camped at mile 220 the cook crew made mushroom polenta, this pared with the bean salad at lunch lead to the demise of groover #4. This was another nice camp for horseshoes, and we played a game of bocce ball before dinner.


An afternoon sun shower.

Day Eighteen:
Oops we missed the take out.


Exit Bouy.

Most Grand trips take out at mile 226, Diamond Creek, but not us, we are going to the lake. We camped at mile 236 the infamous Separation Canyon. This is where three men from Powell’s crew left the mission and hiked out, resulting in their mysterious deaths. Strange to be camped in a spot with such a past.

Conclusion

The Big Ditch Part Five

Day Nineteen:

The river is becoming increasingly calm now. There is still current though and we are hopefully it will last or we'll have a long haul across the lake. We camped on river left just below a tourist trip heli-pad. There were choppers coming in every five minutes. Welcome back to reality.

At dusk we were treated to visitors. Eric and Becky, friends from back home stopped by in the motor rig they operate for Hatch. They showered us with beer, ice and fresh vegetables.

Day Twenty:
Spent this day on the Blazing Paddles with Jamie and Brook, a nice girl's day. After lunch we shifted around a bit and Eric, Sutt, Brook and I loaded on the P.W. for the long haul ahead. On this day we covered 30 miles, much more than we thought we'd be able to at this late stage. We are now camped on Lake Meade. Only 4 mile left to go.



The last day:
We all drug our feet this morning, not wanting this to end. Finally we loaded the boats and began pulling across the lake. About an hour later Brent and Bonnie, Brook's parents, met us in their ski boat.


We took a few turns water skiing and then they pulled us to South Cove, the take-out.


We spent about three hours de-rigging and began saying our goodbyes. Some left for Aspen, others for Jackson and one for a new home in Dallas and his beloved Jonika. The rest of us non-working types stayed for another day of skiing and re-adjustment.



This trip was everything I thought it would be and so much more. The canyon is magnificent, the water exhilarating and the companionship unsurpassed. If you have the chance to run the Colorado through the Grand Canyon, do not let it pass you by. This place is truly magical and should be enjoyed by all.


Parting shots.


Dan and Rach at Havasu.

Take out coyote.

Raft Bed.

Y'all come back now, hear.

We leave tomorrow for a trip I have been waiting to do for more than a decade. To get a private permit on the Grand you have to wait an average of ten years, and as long as fifteen if you want a specific date. The group we are embarking with is solid. We have done many, many, river trips together, they are our dearest friends, and I wouldn't want to go down this river for my first time without them.

Running the Grand is logistically huge, here are the stats; 16 people, 21 days, 6 rafts, 4 kayaks, 960 meals, nearly 150 cases of beer, 14 rocket boxes, 5 aluminum kitchen boxes, 8 coolers, 24 oars, and a total trip cost of just over $11,000.


Rocket boxes filled with dry goods.


Only the finest brew for river trips. Actually beer snobs may not raft, no glass allowed, so you must adopt a quantity over quality attitude.


Here is my major accomplishment from the last two months. I crocheted 16 beer coozies and washcloths for the members of the trip. Yes folks this is what "retirement" does to you.

Thanks to everyone for following along with us these last 8 weeks. We'll be back in mid-September. I just purchased a new "super camera" for this trip, so I ought to bring back some decent pictures, and no doubt some good stories.

Cheers to All.
Rachel and Dan.

Summit Fever

August 14th, 2004
The Loneliest Highway Home.


We had intended to a take four days driving back to Durango, but summit fever got the best of us and we raced back in two days. Our fever pace didn't leave much time for photographs, but then again we were on the "loneliest highway" most of the way so there wasn't much motivation to stop. We were entertained by numerous fighter jets on training missions, a long stretch where people write their names in the sand banks alongside the road with lava rocks, and this fascinating anomaly, the shoe tree.





We made a pit stop in Moab determined to go for a mountain bike ride, but as I stated way back in a past post, Moab in the summer is hotter than the surface of the sun. Even though we should have endured the heat, as a form of training for the Grand in August we couldn’t do it. The pull to drive on the three more hours to Durango and a soft bed, hot shower, cold beer etc. was too great.

Note: While our free guide didn't mention this place, we found a nice road-side camping spot just east of Ely, NV. Look for the National Forest sign east of the town and the camping spots are on the right side of the road, probably 5 spots and a large lot if those are filled.


So here I sit at the in-laws palatial estate, sipping their coffee while they are cruising through Alaska. It is like being at a really nice B & B without all of the other people. Dan is washing his truck and in his happy place as a result. The remainder of this week will be spent rigging and preparing for our Grand Canyon river trip.

Heads Up: While I expect to post at least one more time before then, I am going to be unable to post for three weeks. Now before you all find newer, better, younger, web logs to adopt in my absence, please understand that I will be back and it will be worth the wait! My absence is due to a 21-day river trip down the grandest of all rivers. I have many, many megabytes of photo storage to bring along and I fully intend to post a book-sized photo journal of the trip upon our return.

Additionally I will not be able to respond to emails from the 19th to the 12th of September. If you really want to contact us, you can send us post cards/ mail/ care packages, c/o Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the Grand Canyon. We expect to be at Phantom on the 27th of August. Here's their address.

River Mail
Dan and Rachel Goddard
c/o Phantom Ranch
P.O. Box 1266
Grand Canyon, AZ 86023